Things to Do in Pyongyang in July

Pyongyang's metro system runs roughly 110 metres (360 feet) below the surface, making it one of the deepest in the world. Riding the escalator down into stations like Puhung and Yonggwang is an experience that borders on surreal. The platforms are built like Soviet-era palaces, enormous bronze chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling mosaic murals depicting revolutionary scenes, marble columns polished to a mirror finish. The contrast between this underground grandeur and the functional simplicity of the trains themselves tells you more about the country's priorities than any lecture could. In July, the stations also happen to be the coolest places in the city, a genuine relief from the surface humidity. Tour itineraries typically include two or three stations. Your guides will allow photographs at designated points. The whole experience takes about an hour but stays with you considerably longer. Do not miss this.

The Taedong River splits Pyongyang roughly in half. Seeing the city from the water in July gives you a perspective the walking tours miss entirely. The skyline from mid-river is unlike anything else in modern architecture, the 170-metre (558-foot) Juche Tower on the east bank, the pale bulk of the unfinished Ryugyong Hotel puncturing the clouds to the north, and the low-slung government buildings along the western shore all reflecting off water that runs muddy-brown from monsoon runoff. Evening boat trips, when available, catch the buildings lit in coloured floodlights against a sky still bruised pink from sunset. The breeze off the water is the closest thing to natural air conditioning you will find in July's humidity. Some operators arrange these as dinner cruises with Korean barbecue served on deck, the smell of grilled pork fat mixing with the river air and the metallic tang of recent rain. Book this if you can.

The drive south from Pyongyang to Kaesong takes roughly three hours. The countryside in July is lush. Flooded rice paddies reflect the sky. Farmers in conical hats work knee-deep in green water. Mountains along the route soften under low cloud and mist. Kaesong is the only place in North Korea where traditional Korean courtyard architecture survives in any concentration. Narrow lanes wind between tile-roofed houses. Stone walls wear smooth. Lunch at a local restaurant arrives as a bansang spread. Twelve to fifteen small dishes cover individual brass tables. Pickled radish and fermented soybean paste cut sharp through the humidity. The Panmunjom Joint Security Area at the DMZ lies ten kilometres (six miles) further south. You stand in blue UN buildings straddling the Military Demarcation Line. The tension is not performed. It is architectural, spatial, felt in the silence between buildings.

The twin bronze statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il on Mansu Hill stand over 20 metres (66 feet) tall. Approaching them up granite steps in July's thick heat makes the scale land differently than photographs suggest. The air is heavy enough to taste. Humidity presses your shirt flat against your back. This is one site where protocol matters. Visitors are expected to bow. Maintain a respectful demeanor. Photograph the statues only from directly in front. Never from the side in a way that crops either figure. Your guides will explain this clearly. Following the etiquette is non-negotiable. The surrounding sites form a circuit. The Chollima Statue. The Arch of Triumph, modelled on its Parisian counterpart but deliberately built several metres taller. The Party Foundation Monument with its hammer, sickle, and calligraphy brush. This circuit takes most of a morning. It covers considerable ground on foot. In July, start early. By noon stone surfaces radiate stored heat. Shade disappears.