Metro System, North Korea - Things to Do in Metro System

Things to Do in Metro System

Metro System, North Korea - Complete Travel Guide

Riding the Pyongyang Metro feels like stepping into a 1970s time capsule that happens to move. The stations are buried roughly 100 meters underground, deep enough to double as bomb shelters, so the escalator ride down takes nearly three minutes while Soviet-style orchestral music drifts through the tunnel. Marble pillars, bronze murals and crystal chandeliers flash past as the carriage clatters into the station, and you will catch a faint whiff of ozone and machine oil mingling with the cool, almost cellar-like air. Above ground the system is equally striking: bright-red crests of the double-headed electric cars glide above broad boulevards lined with willows, giving commuters sweeping, almost cinematic views of Kim Il-sung Square and the Taedong River. It is the kind of transit network where every ride feels stage-managed, yet the ordinary details, schoolkids in red scarves murmuring multiplication tables, conductors in navy uniforms saluting as trains pull in, hint at a living, breathing city beneath the choreography.

Top Things to Do in Metro System

Glory Station artwork circuit

Hop off at Glory (Yonggwang) and let your eyes adjust to the amber light reflecting off the mosaic wall that stretches the full 200 m platform. You will hear the low hum of the train recede, replaced by the click of official cameras documenting every visitor. The air smells faintly of granite dust from the tunnel's continual polishing. Each tile panel depicts socialist-realist scenes, farmers, soldiers, scientists, so detailed you can pick out individual strands of wheat.

Booking Tip: Foreigners only ride as part of an organized tour. Ask your guide to schedule at least 30 min here so you are not herded straight back upstairs. Station staff rarely object to lingering if the next group is delayed.

Puhung-to-Prosperity end-to-end run

Board at Puhung ('Reconstruction') and ride the full 22-minute line to Prosperity, crossing beneath the Taedong River. The carriage rocks gently and you will taste metal on your tongue when the brakes squeal. Outside the window tunnel lights strobe like an old film reel. Between stations, lights dim for a few seconds, just long enough to hear fellow passengers shuffle and a child whisper what sounds like a nursery rhyme.

Booking Tip: Sit in the middle car. Guides tend to cluster foreigners near the driver cabin where recorded commentary plays. Mid-car gives you space to observe locals without the audio overlay.

Rush-hour people-watching at Golden Soil

At 07:30 the platform at Golden Soil (Hwanggumbol) is a blur of olive uniforms, black work shoes and the occasional flash of a women's silk hanbok. The tannoy crackles with marching-band snippets while the smell of diesel drifts from maintenance shafts below. You will feel warm air whoosh ahead of each arriving train, carrying a faint sweetness, possibly ginseng candy pulled from commuters' pockets.

Booking Tip: Arrive before 08:00; after that guards clear platforms for 'crowd control' photo ops, blocking casual mingling.

Chandelier close-up at Triumph Station

Triumph (Konsol) hides the network's largest chandelier: a 4-ton crystal web dripping above a polished burgundy floor. Stand directly beneath and you will catch prismatic shards of light dancing across military caps. The faint tinkle of glass accompanies every distant rumble of arriving stock. The station smells of stone coolant, a reminder that tunnel temperatures are artificially chilled year-round.

Booking Tip: Bring a wide-angle lens. Guards forbid flash but do not seem to mind still photography of fixtures. Just avoid shooting the ceiling security cameras.

Evening platform music performance

Around 19:00 most days, a trio of uniformed musicians sets up at the far end of Victory (Sungni) platform. Echoing speakers amplify violin and accordion melodies that bounce off marble walls. Commuters slow their pace, creating pockets of calm amid the mechanical clatter. You will smell rosin from bow hair and the faint caramel scent of commuters' evening snacks bought topside.

Booking Tip: Evening rides are trickier to secure. Guides sometimes switch to buses after dark, so request a 'return trip by metro' when finalizing your day itinerary, not on the spot.

Getting There

You cannot simply fly into Pyongyang and swipe a metro card. Most visitors enter on the Beijing-Pyongyang Air Koryo flight that lands at Sunan International, 24 km north of the city. From the apron you will spot the metro's overground pylons marching toward the skyline. A guide and driver meet every arriving group airside and shuttle you down the Victory Highway. Count the red-white pylons paralleling the road, an easy way to track progress when your phone has no signal. Trains from Dandong (China) arrive at Pyongyang Central Rail, a ten-minute walk from Glory station if you are keen to glimpse the metro from street level before the official tour starts.

Getting Around

Once in town the metro costs nothing for foreigners. Rides are bundled into your tour package. Tokens are translucent plastic chips the size of a ten-cent coin; you slip them into a waist-high turnstile that clunks satisfyingly. Trains run every 4-7 minutes until 22:30, though schedules tighten to 10 minutes after 20:00. Station names are announced in Korean followed by measured English: listen for the metallic female voice saying 'Next stop… Ponghwa.' If you exit the system, above-ground options are limited to pre-booked tour buses. Ordinary city buses and trams are off-limits to tourists.

Where to Stay

Yanggakdo Island - tower hotel where metro-themed art lines the lobby

Koryo Hotel downtown, a short cab hop to Golden Soil entrance

Sosan Hotel on Sports Street, handy for Triumph station

Ryanggong-grade hostel near Puhung for budget-tier tours

Pothonggang Hotel riverside, giving river views plus easy metro tunnel access

Moranbong-side guest villa if your group arranges homestay-style permissions

Food & Dining

No street food inside stations. The Yonggwang exit drops you on Changgwang Street where the Koryo Hotel's second-floor noodle bar chills naengmyeon for the price of a mid-range Pyongyang lunch. Near Golden Soil, Potonggang Restaurant fires kimchi jjigae in clay bowls that keep the stew volcanic while you plot your next hop. Come evening, riders surfacing at Sungni walk 200 m east to a workers' canteen; stainless vats ladle corn rice and salty fish stew for less than hotel buffets, though tourists still pay a markup. Every metro exit hides a turquoise state-run kiosk; grape soda and warm soy milk cost the same token coins you used to enter the train.

When to Visit

April-June and September-October serve the softest tunnel air. Summer humidity drips underground and turns platforms into lukewarm cellars. Winter coats suffocate inside heated cars yet save you above ground. National holidays dress stations with extra flower displays but also slam gates for "rehearsals." If your trip lands on Day of the Sun (15 April) or Party Foundation (10 Oct), bank an extra half-day; the network can yank tourist access without warning.

Insider Tips

Pack small euros or yuan. Kiosks pocket foreign coins for soda even when signs bark "local currency only."
Want a seat? March to the rear car. Guides shove groups forward. The last two benches stay open.
Snap trains at will. Skip tunnel mouths. Guards tag track shots as "strategic" and will order deletion.

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